Every time I think back to the things that happened while I was walking Te Araroa, I still struggle to believe that some of them even were possible. Leaving the trail five times (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) and yet still not completing the whole thing, my car being stolen, meeting the Prime Minister, walking with the same group of awesome guys for a month, flipping kayaks and crashing canoes, and the crazy COVID-19 pandemic – I still can’t get over the sorts of things that happened that I never expected to. So much for just a walk from one end of the country to the other – it was much more eventful than that.
Of course none of those crazy events are even related to any of the wonderful places I ended up visiting. It’s really hard to pick the best parts of the whole trail, but I’m going to give it a go. These are the parts of the trail I’d recommend to people wanting to do a short section of the trail.
- All of the Richmond Ranges (days 87 to 94)
- Tongariro Crossing (day 59)
- Goat Pass (day 104)
- Puketi Forest and river walk (day 10)
- Waiau Pass (day 97)
These were the five best walking tracks in my opinion, but there were of course other days which were really great, not because of the view or the wonderful path, but for other reasons. I would have to say that my most favourite day on the whole trail was actually the very first day for no other reason than it was so exciting and scary – I was finally on the trail after spending almost the whole year thinking about it and the emotions I was feeling that day I’ll remember forever.
There were a few times on the trail where I thought to myself that I would be prepared to wipe my entire memory of the whole trail just so that I could experience the thrill and excitement of that first day a second time. The start of the trail was so new and exciting because it was the first time I’d ever done any kind of multi-day hike before. I especially started to think this in the second half of the South Island because once I passed somewhere around Lake Coleridge in the South Island, a lot of the trail became a bit “ho-hum” by then and I was just looking forward to finishing it so I could return to normal life.
Lots of foreigners come to New Zealand and only walk the South Island, either because they have heard the North Island isn’t worth it, or they only have limited time, or for other reasons. So which island did I prefer? Perhaps controversially, I preferred the North Island.
The North Island was a huge variety of landscapes and experiences, it was thrilling because it was first (and therefore new and exciting), having lived most of my life in the North Island it allowed me to see all the places I have known and loved all my life from different angles, and I was able to walk with a couple of groups of people for a long distance.
The South Island was merely an epic hiking expedition. Which is great, but it’s not the main reason that I originally sought to do this.
I know I’m writing this as if it’s all over, despite the fact that I only completed 89% of the trail. I’m aware that I could do the final 11% in two weeks, in a break from work (once I start working again), however the truth is I probably won’t. There were no sections of the trail past Queenstown I was particularly looking forward to, except perhaps the beach walks along the south coast. Realistically there’s no chance it’s going to happen this season now and arriving at Bluff with a gap of a year or two since starting feels like it would be pointless and would achieve nothing. Of course, if it ever does happen I will document it here!
When I sit down and read back through all the previous posts, especially near the beginning, I am reminded of how happy I was to be out there. It was always more about the journey than the destination. Getting to Stirling Point at Bluff would have been nice but it always felt like just a formality. This was more and more the case each time I had to leave the trail for whatever reason. If I had’ve walked from Cape Reinga to Bluff without stopping so many times like most tourists would do then reaching the finish line would have been much more important.
I remember on the morning of my last day on the trail when I was deciding whether to continue on or not, I was chatting with Henry who was one day ahead of me and who had just left Queenstown, and we were discussing whether we should go on – by that time the lockdown had not been announced. Henry was worried about going on from Queenstown and I said I agreed, I don’t want to be stuck in Invercargill after the trail was over. But then I said “surely they won’t cancel all domestic flights. I just really can’t picture that happening”. The idea just seemed so incomprehensible. And then, less than 6 hours later, that’s exactly what they did. We really are in crazy times right now.
I also know that Henry was originally unable to get a flight out of Queenstown but then he did make it home safely before the lockdown.
If the announcement had’ve been a day later, when I would have passed Queenstown, I wonder what would have happened to me. Would I have finished the trail, but be stuck in Invercargill or Bluff for the duration of the lockdown? Would I have found the two big farms that we walk through closed, and be stuck in the middle of nowhere? Would I have arrived at the Colac Bay tavern with no remaining food, expecting to go in and get a huge big meal, only to find the tavern (and everything else around) closed?
It would be great to walk Te Araroa northbound one day (in the very distant future!), and if by chance I ever did that then I would like to do it without stopping. No break for Christmas, no injuries (hopefully), no social engagements, just walking. But again I think it’s unlikely that I’ll do that – it’s hard to take such a long time out of normal life, and also to experience the excitement of a brand new experience again maybe the next long hike will be something overseas. But with the pandemic ravaging the world any kind of overseas travel might be years away now, so who really knows.
Since I’ve been back home I’ve been pretty bored, especially since I’m not working. As I write this we’re on Day 6 of the Alert Level 4 lockdown. The lockdown has been forecast to last four weeks, and if it does last exactly four weeks, then it will be lifted on the exact day of my 40th birthday. I’m interested to see if I’m allowed to go and have a drink with my friends on my 40th birthday or not.
I’ve been getting back into running – being about the only outdoor activity we’re still allowed to do. On the first day I was only able to run 4km, but now I’m consistently running 10km on two days out of three, so that’s good. It seems that despite walking big distances most days in the last six months, this hasn’t carried over to being able to run long distances each day. But that’s okay, at least I can run which gives me something to do and means I might not put on a ton of weight during this lockdown. I put today’s 11km run on the map below – just one last map for old time’s sake!
It was really fun writing the blog, I don’t know what I would have done in many of the evenings otherwise, and it will always be a reminder of this six month period of my life. Walking Te Araroa was a great experience and I never regretted it at any time. I really liked all the positive comments I got from you readers and especially when people said that they were inspired to walk some of the sections of the trail that I walked. I’d love it if this blog ever inspires anybody out there to do the entire TA – if that’s you, please let me know in the comments below!
Today's run on the map (blue = Te Araroa, red = today's run):
This made me both happy and sad at the same time. Great final thoughts bro.
Loved reading your posts Matthew, what a great adventure you had! You never know, you may just get to finish that final 11% one day in the future. Stay safe and stay well. xxx
Thanks and goodbye Matt. Reading your posts has been a joy. Stay safe.
It’s been great reading your blogs don’t say you won’t finish it . I did the trail over three years and loved every time I did a section I was 70 when I finished ,when ever you may be down south or on holiday fit a small section in . Would love to see you complete it . It was a surreal experience . Cheers.
a wonderful effort matt, reading your blog was something to look forward to and the photos were
great.you might get to finish the last section one day.
Well Matt, inspiring is exactly what your blog has been for me
Prehistoric 75yo ex deer culler and possum monitoring contractor mid and lower NI so have seen some majestic places but I intend to do a lot of the TA trail in stages once lockdown expires and I fill the freezer with organic venison again. Your pics were amazing, esp SI alpine country. Would like to see a review of gear used, eg. Naturehike tent. Cheers and good health
Thanks for being there with me right from before Day 1!
Hi Matt,
Thanks for sharing this.
How do you track your route, to be able to create the maps at the end of your blog posts?
Cheers,
Jan
The data from the map comes from my Suunto Ambit 3 GPS watch. The actual map that shows the watch data was something I wrote myself as a software developer.
Hey Matt, It has been great reading your trail story. I can understand your disappointment/frustration about not finishing. In 2018 I cycled from Cairo to almost Cape Town, A trip of 12,000km in 119 days. Well almost. I arrived at the South African border with Namibia with 6 days and 900km to go and was refused entry into South Africa as I did not have an entry Visa from NZ. So close and yet so far. I started walking the TA trail 22nd Nov and have followed your blog to give me and idea of what lies ahead each day. It has been fascinating to see some of the things that you have photographed and written about along the way. Thanks for keeping a great blog about the TA trail. Marty
Wow, that would have been really frustrating! Great story!
Great summary Matt. Still hope you complete the 11% some day. Has been an awesome read. There have been comments down here that you should see if you can transfer the blog in to a book?
I don’t know about the book. With a book you have to write in a certain way. With the blog I don’t have to answer to anyone!
It has been a pleasure reading your blog. Thanks for putting in all the effort of writing it every day. Best wishes for the future.
I have been following TA blogs for several years now. This was by far the best I have read. Great job and well done.
Very much appreciated 😁
Matt – Jeff on Vancouver Island here. Thanks for the thoughtful summary. Of the few TA blogs I followed this season, yours was the most interesting in that it wasn’t just a regurgitation of facts (kms walked, hours of suffering experienced, food eaten, kgs carried, # of sandfly bites!), but you included your impressions of what you saw, felt, and experienced. As an ex-pat Kiwi who is (had been) planning on the South Island TA as a NOBO for 2021, it was fun to add your take on things into my planning – which may of course be put off for a while now. Good luck with the job hunt, and happy 40th when it rolls around.
Thanks! To use the words of our prime minister, I’m “cautiously optimistic” that things will have settled enough by then.
Hey Matt
Great summary, as other have said it has been a great read that I have followed from Day 1
Will your blog go into the Te Araroa archive for future reference?
Peter
It’s on the “current walkers” page right now so hopefully the trust move those to the archive automatically. But I will check next season!
Thank you for writing this Blog. It‘s been a great distraction from not being able to start because of the latest Covid thing, but also contained great insights as to what‘s ahead. Plus you‘re a similar age as i which gave me more hope – and a good reminder to listen to my body. Greetings from Mangere.
I’m glad you enjoyed it, and yes despite what I wrote here I do want to finish it one day, I’ve decided!
It’s hard to listen to your body when it doesn’t start hurting until days later… but yes listen to it as much as you can.
And you can do it !!!!!
Its been a wonderful read Matt, has inspired me to hike. And of course ultimately do the TA. Love your writing style. Let us know when the final installment begins. Cheers and best wishes